I need a router table to do new projects, and since I haven’t designed a new lift system for the workbench with the table saw & router table, I’ve been thinking about modifying the plunge base I have in my workshop so I can use it this way.
I was looking for something fast and easy, which, at the same time, would allow me to remove the plunge base to use it manually in a few seconds. I also wanted to save the money of having to buy a new lift system.
Specifications of the plunge base router lift system.
Finally, I thought about using a threaded rod, to which I soldered a countersink bolt to lift and lower the router from the worktop, avoiding the inconvenience of having to crouch to adjust the router from within its cabinet.
To make the process of attaching and removing the router table’s plunge base easier, I’ve thought about using the same system I used with the quick install base plate which I made a few months ago to use with my circle jig, where I used the lock system to fasten the parallel routing guide. In the second photo you can see how quick it is to use the router and its base this way.
This is optional, with this lift system you can also screw the plunge base to the underside of the worktop, as it’s usual in these cases.
In the third photo you can see how convenient it is to fasten the router in a few seconds. I’m going to check if the router is square with the worktable, and it seems the steel rods can hold the weight of this router without any problems.
At the same time, I wanted to reduce the vibrations that the router conducts to the worktop while it’s in operation. In these shots of my previous router table you can see this problem.
With this new quick install system, the router is not directly in contact with the worktop, and I also don’t need the typical aluminum insert plate, and all this has reduced the vibrations considerably.
This is my previous router table. All of us who used this fixed base inverted have had the same problem. The router gets stuck when trying to lift it or lower it, and when forcing it, the aluminum of the base, and the router itself, get deep scratches. Besides, it’s not comfortable having to change the position of the router to achieve a greater routing height.
I’m going to detach the lift system so we can see in detail how it works. If you want to make this modification, you have to check the interior diameter of the spring of your plunge base. In my case, I’ve been able to use an M10, 300mm long threaded rod. I’ve applied some grease to reduce the friction.
After checking this, the first thing you should do is test if your plunge base works with this system. To do this, you’ll have to detach the cover from one of its springs and use a piece of wood along with a threaded insert. After running some tests, I saw that, in my case, this system works better in the spring that has the lock. This is also something you should check before doing the modification.
The spring is protected by a plastic sheet and has a piston on the top. This piston will not be needed for the lift system, but I might have to install it again to use the base manually. Later on, I’ll run some tests.
Keep in mind that if your router is new, you’ll likely void your warranty by doing this modification. In my case, the warranty expired long ago.
With a piece of HPL panel, I made a piece of the same contour as the cover, to which I glued the threaded insert.
On the router worktable, I routed a recess that is 2mm deeper than the thickness of the insert rings. Then, I used silicone to level the rings with the top.
How to use a plunge base router lift system?
I’m going to attach the router to run some tests. Looks like everything is working correctly. The next few days, I’m going to have to use it to do some jobs, and I’ll keep an eye out in case the router comes loose from its quick install base plate due to the vibrations. I haven’t had that problem so far. If this happens, I’ll screw the plunge base to the underside of the worktable.
I think this is a perfect solution for those of us who don’t want to spend money on a router lift and have a plunge base of this type. If someone’s going to try this modification with a different model, I’d love to know if it works for you, too.
Now I want to test if I can continue using the plunge base for manual routing. To do this, I have to remove the threaded rod and as you can see in the fourth photo, I’m going to use a steel pipe as a guide to insert into the spring. It seems everything’s working correctly, which is great news.
How to make a plunge base router lift system?
Now I’ll show you how I installed this lift system. First off, we’ll have to remove the acrylic cover that normally comes with these bases, and take the necessary measurements to find out the position of the holes in the piece of wood. I’m going to use a piece of wood that’s 200 x 100 x 35mm. To drill the holes, I’ll use a bit that is 1mm more in diameter than the steel rod.
I made some marks on the steel pipes with a file so that the epoxy adhesive works better. I’ll drill the holes with a greater diameter, which will allow me to correct potential deviations. Now I’ll drill other holes to hold the piece of wood to the router top.
It’s time to mark on the top the exact position where I want to place the router so that I can cut the recess for the insert rings. I’ll use the handheld router and my circle router jig. It’s best to do this little by little to avoid going over the desired diameter. I want the rings to fit tightly. The incremental jig is perfect for this job.
I’m going to flip the top over to fasten the piece of wood to its underside. I’m going to take advantage of the fact that it happens to be right below the T-track profile on the top, to place another screw from the top and strengthen the joint.
Now I’m going to detach the router base to install the threaded rod. After countersinking the hole of the base, I’m going to drill the cover so that I can insert the rod. I’m also going to machine the HPL piece where I’ll glue the t-nut and cut the tips of the threaded insertb because I’m going to glue it with epoxy.
It’s time to install the plunge base again, along with the HPL piece I just made. The only thing that’s left is to drill the plywood top so that I can access the threaded rod and turn it to lift or lower the router.
Thank you for reading this article until the end. See you soon!
