In this second article I’ll show you how you can build this no hole DIY incremental jig to cut circles on a band saw or router table.

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Incremental Circle Jig Plans

 

 

How to make a Homemade incremental circle jig?

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First of all, we have to cut the aluminum plate to size so that we can make all the T-slot aluminum pieces we need. I’ll use a blade to cut aluminum and make the cut in 2 or 3 runs.

I’ll also use the table saw to make the necessary rabbets. I attached a piece of MDF to the fence with clamps to make this easier (second photo).

I cut the piece a few tenths of a millimeter bigger than necessary and then finish the job with files and sandpaper. It’s important to make these pieces as accurately as possible to ensure the jig works properly.

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With the band saw, I’ll cut the 4 T pieces to size. I’m going to mark the positions of all the holes by checking the plans. I have to thread some of them, so it’s important to choose the correct drill bit for each hole.

I’ll start with the slider. First, I’ll drill the three holes that will act as rotation axis. Now, I drill the hole for the threaded rod. The hole must be as plumb as possible. I’ll use the outer part of a vise to align the piece with the drill bit (fourth photo).

 

 

How to make the sliders a DIY incremental circle jig?

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It’s time to thread the holes that need it. Here it’s also important to ensure they’re plumb at all times. I just realized that with this threaded tap I can thread the entire length of the slider. I’m going to make its hole bigger until the halfway point on one end with a bigger bit, and then thread only the other half. In this case, I’ll use the column drill to ensure the thread is plumb.

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Now I’ll cut the three pieces of plyboard I need, I’ll be using birch plywood. Also, with the table saw, I’ll cut some grooves for the aluminum profiles. I’m going to join the three pieces of plyboard together using wood screws, although I could use wood glue here as well.

With the band saw, I’ll cut the resulting piece to size making sure the blade doesn’t touch the screws I used to join the pieces.

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Also, with the table saw, I’ll cut another 2mm deep dado for the jig slider. I can use it to remove and reinsert it more easily when necessary, for example, to use the jig on some other tool.

I attach the aluminum profiles to the jig with screws and now I’ve thought about installing a 1mm thick metal plate to the bottom of the T-stop slot. This way, the headless bolt in this piece won’t damage the jig’s miter channel whenever I have to lock it.

The final step is to assemble the entire mechanism of the jig, and that will be all for today. Click on this link if you are interested in seeing the article where I’ll show how to use this jig to make a round kitchen table without the need to drill a center hole.

 

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