In this article I will show how to make a quick install base plate that will allow you to attach your router to any router jig in a faster and more comfortable way. If you want to see how to use it to perform all types of milling, check out this other article.
This is the 3D design that includes the plans that you will find to download for free on my website, I will leave a link in the button below. They also include a printable template to stick on the board to make the job easier.
Now I’ll show you how to make this quick install base for a router. First off, we have to cut the HPL panel to size with the table saw. Then I’ll stick the printable template on to make it easier to drill the holes and machine the piece.
I drill the holes with the column drill and cut with the band saw. I’m going to bezel the inner edges with a router.
With a thread tap, I thread the holes to fasten this base to the aluminum circle jig. I cut the two wooden pieces where I’m going to insert the steel pipe to size, al-beit a little longer.
I mark the center and drill a hole with a bit whose diameter is 1mm wider than the pipe I’m going to use. I’m also going to mark the curve I have to make to adapt it to my router’s plunge base.
By drilling a hole that’s slightly wider, I can correct any potential deviations in the hole. On a flat surface, I glue the steel pipes to the two wooden pieces, being careful not to also glue the router’s plunge base.
I make sure everything’s correct, and after cutting the pipes to size, I can glue them to the wooden pieces. On the corner where I can’t use a tightening knob, I’ll use a wedge to fasten the pipe. I’ve used a file to cut some marks on the steel. By doing this, the epoxy adhesive will be more effective.
Now I’ll use a bit of the same diameter as the central hole of the HPL base to center the router’s plunge base. Once this is done, I’ll use cyanoacrylate to glue the two wooden pieces onto the HPL. Once the glue is dry, I can finish drilling the holes and placing the screws.
With the sanding disc, I sand down all the edges of the base. It’s time to make the parallel guide. I’ll use a piece of hard wood. I drill a hole to bring this guide closer to the router bit and I also drill two countersink holes on the aluminum parallel guide.
I mark the position of the holes in the wood and fasten it to the aluminum with screws. Now I’m going to mark the hole that will allow us to use the incremental system. I have to enlarge the diameter of the aluminum pipe that will act as a rotation axis a little. Once this is done, we only need to glue it to the wood.
Finally, all that’s left is to modify the large circle jig. I’m going to cut its base plate so that we con continue using the small jig’s knob. I’ll cut it with the band saw.
I drill two countersink holes to fasten it. In the other jig, I drill two more holes that I will have to thread for a metric 5 bolt. I also have to cut a small recess so that I can turn the adjusting knob.
