This is the second article about my new folding woodworking station. Today I’ll be showing you how to use and make this small router table for use with the workstation, or on its own.

 

 

Homemade Trim Router Table Plans 

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This is the 3D SketchUp model included in the plans for sale on my website. The cabinets of this project can be swapped and I’ll probably make more of them so that I can swap them depending on the project I’m going to do.

Trim Router Table Plans

 

 

DIY Trim Router Table Specs 

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I’ve cut part of the side and back pieces of the router table to reduce its total weight. These gaps can be cut without rounded corners. This step isn’t indispensable if weight is not a problem in your case.

This is the insert plate I’ve used. It comes with a plunge base for routers that are 65mm in diameter. In my case I’ve decided to move it towards the bench saw when installing it. This way, I will have a larger work surface in front of the router, and I’ve also been able to install a miter channel.

It’s not usual to install a miter channel for such a small router table, but I wanted to make the most out of this tool. This is optional and you can adapt the position of the insert plate to your needs. You could, for example, install the router in the center of the worktable and ditch the miter channel.

The insert plate isn’t indispensable either; you could use a piece of acrylic or the router base itself as an insert. However, this insert plate is lightweight, fairly precise, and being able to lift and lower the router from the top is a point in its favor.

The insert has four bolts for fastening it, and another 4 headless bolts to keep it level with the worktable. I’ve installed some pushpins to avoid damaging the table when leveling the insert.

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At first I wanted to glue the worktable to the sides, but in the end I decided to use bolts and barrel nuts. Both methods are perfectly valid, but I opted for the latter just in case I need to reform or change the worktable some day.

I’ve installed a plywood strip so that I can fasten the miter channel. These are the four parts that will allow me to hold the insert to the worktable, for that I’ve installed some threaded inserts. The table has some grooves underneath so that it can be inserted into the sides. Here is where we should apply wood glue if we’re not going to use the barrel nuts.

To make the worktable, I used some black MDF I had in my workshop. We could also use standard MDF or the same plywood I used to build the rest of the cabinet. If the board has melamine or HPL on both sides, even better.

 

 

How to use a DIY Trim Router Table  

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I’ve designed the router so that it can be moved about 15 cm forward and backward on the foldable stand. This is because of two reasons—first, so that I can access the side of the bench saw more easily, but also to achieve a slightly larger work surface when cutting with the saw.

I’m going to run some tests so we can see the router in action. First with a chamfer bit.

How-use-trim-compact-router-table-straight-bit-fence

Now I’ll swap it with a straight bit to cut a groove. In this case I’m going to use the bench saw fence. To get the most out of this router, it would be a good idea to install a couple of aluminum profiles on the saw fence. I’ve noticed this fence has some play when pulling it up, even when locked. This won’t be a problem for most routing projects.

How-use-trim-compact-router-table-fence-t-track

Another option is to make a new fence, like I did for my mobile workbench. In this case, it will be necessary to install a couple of T track profiles on the router’s worktable. I’m going to remove the bolts to show you how it works.

How-use-trim-compact-router-table-featherboard-miter-gauge

The miter channel will allow me to use featherboards. It will also let me use the miter gauge so that I can router end grain or at an angle. This router table is halfway between a trim router table and one of the larger ones. When removing it from the foldable stand, I can use it everywhere else in the workshop, putting it on a stand that’s not too high, and on the workbench, with the help of some wood strips.

That’s all for today. In a few days, I’ll upload the next article in the series, where I’ll be showing you how to make a compact assembly table for this workbench.

 

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