In this new article, I’ll try to clear up all your doubts about how to modify this design to use it with a different kind of lift table. I’ll also discuss which boards it’s best to use to build this workbench.
What kind of boards should I use to make the Miter Saw Station and Lift Workbench?
You can use almost any kind of wooden boards available on the market, but each type comes with its own advantages and disadvantages. The weight, robustness and stability of this tool will change depending on the wood we use.
In my case, I used hard birch plywood to make all the workbench pieces, except for the worktops, where I used trailer plywood.
It’s a kind of board made with birch plywood that has a phenolic layer on both sides. I like it for the worktops because its surfaces are harder than those of regular plywood. It’s a little pricey and hard to get outside of Europe.
The choice of plywood for the worktops will depend on your way of working and the jobs you’re going to do. If you’re going to use this workbench to glue workpieces together, you would benefit from a smooth, non-porous surface like plywood with an HPL sheet on both sides or melamine. It will be easier to wipe off any leftover glue.
It doesn’t have to be plywood. Any other kind of wood product with melamine sides will do, such as MDF or even chipboard. You can also use boards without veneers and varnish them.
If you’re not going to use it for dirty or heavy projects, but rather to cut workpieces with your plunge saw, any other type of boards such as MDF without veneers will do.
I’m not going to do heavy projects on this workbench, so I’m going to use the non-slip side of the trailer plywood. I don’t think it’s easy to wipe leftover glue off this surface; in that case I would use the other smooth side of this board.
For the other parts of the workbench, it’s better to use boards that don’t have veneers so that the glue works better. If you’re going to use screws to put the workbench together, this won’t be a problem.
In section N.5 of this article, you’ll find all the information you need on the advantages and disadvantages of using different kinds of boards to make homemade tools.
Of course, you can use the same boards to build the entire project. Almost all of the parts of this design must be able to bear significant weight loads, which is why I don’t recommend using plywood that’s too soft, such as light poplar plywood.
You should make sure the boards you use to make all the pieces of this tool have the same thickness as the boards in the original design to avoid making modifications.
Which lift table to use with the Miter Saw Station and Plunge Saw?
The best option, without a doubt, is a scissor lift table like the one I used. The only downside is that they’re quite expensive, so if you can’t afford this kind of table, you could go for a cart lift table instead.
Nowadays there are reasonably affordable models, like the one in the second picture, which costs around 500 euros. It may seem like a considerable investment, but these kinds of lifts are really useful in a large or medium-sized workshop.
Besides using it for this project, you can use this kind of lift table as a height-adjustable workbench, transport carts and as an outfeed-infeed table with your band saw or planer.
If you use one of these cart lift tables, you’ll likely have to replace the two front wheels with swivel caster wheels. Normally, they come with fixed front wheels.
The cart lift table should also rise to a height of at least 100 cm, so that the scissors aren’t fully extended when lifting the table when working at around 90 cm from the floor. Otherwise, the bench could lose stability.
If possible, use a foot-activated cart lift; the ones that are operated by hand won’t do. It should be able to hold around 250 kg.
As a final option, you could also use a standing desk. I’ve seen a colleague reuse one of those desks in a similar way. If it’s possible, use a four-legged desk that’s only 2-stage and that can bear around 250 kg.
The table I used weighs around 75 kg. If your lift table is lighter and smaller, you should check how far you can open its extension tablets. You may find that they’re wobbly.
If you use the extensions on both sides, this shouldn’t be a problem. One will act as a counterweight to the other.
What clamping system to use with the Miter Saw Station and Plunge Saw?
Another issue to take into account is the clamping system to work on top of the workbench. This will depend on several factors—your budget, what you’ll be using the tool for, and also your way of working.
In my case I used the MTF clamping system because, with this workbench, I wasn’t looking for a work surface full of channels. Another reason is that I have a lot of accessories such as workbench dogs and holdfast clamps that I can use with this system, and besides I think it’s the cheapest one.
As you can see in the first picture, I’ve used this system before in other workbenches, such as the Modular Workbench and the Multi-Function Workbench. Here you’ll see the steps required to use the MTF clamping system.
Besides the method shown in the video I linked to, there are templates to drill holes with a router and guide bushings. If you have access to a CNC, it will be easy to make your own template. This template will also serve to drill the holes with a hand drill.
Another option is to use the Matchfit system, like I did with my Folding Workstation, which you can see in the second picture. You only need the proper router bit to cut all the channels you want. Keep in mind that all the accessories that can be used with this system are very expensive.
Here you can see me cutting the grooves for the Matchfit system. If you’re going to use this system, it’s better to use hard plywood to make the top. In my opinion, MDF can’t withstand the pressure exerted by the Matchfit system accessories very well.
The final option is to use the usual T-track aluminium profiles, but this is not only a fairly expensive system, I personally don’t like a work surface that’s full of aluminium profiles.
However, these aluminum profiles will be perfect for the front and the back of the workbench, instead of the Matchfit system I’ve used. In these images you can see me following the steps to install T-track aluminium profiles.
Some people combine some of these three systems, as you can see in this example. T-track profiles or Matchfit channels with holes. At any rate, you can start with the system with holes and later on you could always install aluminium profiles or Matchfit channels.
If you’re going to use a scissor lift table, you should be aware that you won’t have easy access to the inside of the workbench. This means that if you use the hole system, all the sawdust or screws that slip through the holes will end up on the top of the cart lift table.
You would have to disassemble the workbench to access this gap. In this case, it’s worth considering using the Matchfit or T-track systems and avoid using holes.
When to modify the plans for the Miter Saw Station?
First off, you should become thoroughly acquainted with the bench. Check out all of the videos and read all the files in the instructions and support articles included in the plans.
Next, you should print out the cutting list in the plans, which includes all the parts and their reference numbers, as well as their position in the workbench. In this article, you’ll find a great deal of information on how to use the plans on this site.
This design is meant for a lift table whose maximum dimensions are 1100 x 664mm. Now I’ll try to go over the five different scenarios you’ll encounter when trying to install a different lift table. You might run into one or many of these issues at the same time. In the above picture, you can see the minimum measurements your table should have in each case (as seen from below).
1- Your table is 1100mm x 664mm. It’s just like the one I used, so you don’t have to do anything.
2- Your table is 1100mm long, but under 664mm in depth. As you still have the support of the two pieces on the ends with the reference codes “3A” and “3E”, you won’t have to modify anything. At most, you could consider installing the two pieces with the reference code “4”. If it’s less than the 564mm in depth shown in picture 2, you should modify the design, at least in regard to its depth.
3- Your table is 664mm in depth, but less than 1100mm in length. In this case you won’t have to modify the design either, simply cut and screw on the four pieces with the reference number “5” so that you’ll still have enough support. If it’s less than the 900mm in length specified in picture 3, you should modify the design, at least in regard to its length.
4- Your table is less than 1100mm in length and also less than 664mm in depth. In this case, you simply have to cut and screw on the four pieces with the reference number “5” and the two that have the reference number “4”. If it’s less than 900mm x 564mm you should modify the design.
The final scenario is when your table is over 1100mm x 664mm, in one or both directions. In this case, modifying the design is indispensable.
Another option is to cut a new piece of plywood measuring 1100mm x 664mm to screw to the underside of the bench. This piece will be the one that rests on the top of your lift table, and you won’t need the four pieces referenced “5”. You should still respect the above.
How to modify the plans for the Saw Miter Station and Plunge Saw?
If you need to add length to the design because your table is over 1100mm, you’ll have to add the difference to the pieces labelled “1” and “2” in the plans, and the four aluminium pipes of the extensions.
If you need to make the design shorter because your table is less than 900mm, you’ll have to subtract the difference to the pieces labelled “1” and “2” in the plans, and to the four aluminium pipes of the extensions.
Apart from this, the easiest way to distribute the interior divisions is to add or subtract the difference between the two gaps labelled as “A” in the above picture. This way, all else will be equal.
If, for example, you’re going to subtract 100 mm from the length of the design, you should take off 50 mm from each of the two distances labelled as “A”.
I recommend you print out the PDF “Cutting List” and write the new measurements by hand next to the old dimensions of each piece you need to modify.
Modifying the depth will take a little more work. You’ll have to add or subtract the difference to all the pieces that cross the red line above. These are almost all of the pieces. Also the extensions to use with the miter saw, minus its two worktables.
You should respect the position of all the holes for the screws and fasteners. To do this, you only have to predrill them by measuring from the ends of each piece; and those that go in the middle of any piece should remain as such, in the middle.
If you need to change the length and depth, you’ll have to combine both methods.
