This is the last video in an eight-part series about my new woodworking workbench, fitted with a bench table saw and a router table.
A few months ago, when I made the first drafts for this project in my head, I thought of a robust workbench to work on that could be equipped with a bench table saw and a router table.
Apart from all that, I had a versatile, compact and portable design in mind, especially aimed at small workshops. I think in the end I managed to blend all of those features into a single, elegant piece of furniture.
Plans for a Woodworking Workbench with Table Saw and Router Table
This is the 3D SketchUp file included in the plans for sale on my website. I have an article where I explain how to modify this design to use it with other bench table saws. I also explain how to use other types of boards.
This design could even be used for an inverted circular saw or a new homemade table saw with a belt and an induction motor. As for me, I used a DeWalt DWE7492-QS bench table saw.
Mobile Workbench Plans
When it’s against the wall, with the side and outfeed folding tables closed, the bench is 70 cm deep and 180cm long. Its height is the standard for these worktables, around 90 cm. The design allows for relatively easy resizing of these measurements if you have some knowledge in this area. If you’re interested, there is an article on my website explaining all the necessary steps to modify it. Be careful, there are other, very similar bench table saw models but with other dimensions.
I’ve used the same construction by addition of parts method I used in my other woodworking workbenches. This means I glued plywood pieces together to achieve the required thickness, making it easier to build and requiring fewer tools. I’ve used hard birch plywood for the frames and inner cabinets, and soft poplar plywood for the drawers. Plywood will make this bench very stable and incredibly durable.
I’ve installed some retractable levelling casters, which I think are the perfect complement for this bench. They’ll let me move the bench around the workshop and lock it in place when necessary, as well as levelling it if the floor is in poor condition.
I’ve made a wrench to adjust these casters more easily. By turning a gear I can raise and lower a rubber leg to lock the caster and avoid unwanted movement while working on the bench, which can happen with other widely used wheels with a foot-operated brake.
This is what the bench looks like from the back and before opening the folding tables (fourth photo). I’ve designed the side table and sliding carriage with a little more depth than the workbench to leave them flush with the back folding table when closed.
DIY Sliding Carriage for a Bench Table Saw
I’ve installed a sliding carriage to the left of the saw. To use it, I only have to remove the four screws that are locking it and attach this aluminum fence using the two T-track profiles. In these clips from a previous video -episode 2 in this series-, you can see it in operation.
This carriage will be perfect for cutting relatively large workpieces. It will also let me cut pieces at an angle and hold them down with clamps. The fence is extendable, allowing me to cut longer workpieces, up to 165 cm.
To cut deeper pieces, I came up with a system involving a drawer with slides installed underneath the carriage and a piece of plywood acting as a stop. With this setup I can cut workpieces up to 73 cm in depth. I’ve designed it in this way in order to not have anything jutting out from the front of the bench when I’m not using the sliding carriage.
It would have been easier to install linear bearings on some kind of support sticking out from the front of the bench, but if I were to do it that way, I don’t think this workbench would have been as comfortable to work on and would have taken up more space when storing it against a wall.
DIY Side Folding Table for a Woodworking Workbench
This is the DIY side folding table of the portable table saw workbench. As shown in episode 5, to open the side table, all you need to do is unlock the two box clasp clamps installed below the bench and place the stop the acts as a support for the table. This table will let me do various jobs, both when open and when closed.
Thanks to the T-track profiles, when it’s closed I can prop workpieces to make biscuit joints and other kinds of joints. Once open I can use it to expand the bench’s work surface or to cut longer pieces with the sliding carriage.
The other great advantage of using the carriage like this is that the workpieces are the same height as the entire surface of the bench, as well as the ability to use the table saw fence as a stop.
Here I can also use the DIY hold fast clamps I made for the other woodworking workbenches. Along with the clamps for the T-track profile, they will allow me to hold down workpieces on the front of the bench in several kinds of jobs.
DIY Outfeed Folding Table for a Bench Table Saw
In episode 6 of this series of videos, I showed you how to make and use the DIY outfeed folding table in the back. I used folding shelf brackets; the kind used to make these kinds of tables. I think they’re the perfect fitting for what I was looking for in this folding table – a table that can be opened and closed in a fast and easy way, which is also sturdy and can hold the weight of the workpieces on the outfeed. This table will also let me increase the work surface of the router table.
In order to remove the saw fence, I have to close the outfeed folding table, which I’m not too satisfied with. As I said in a previous video, I’m planning on making a new fence to use with this mobile workbench – more robust, more precise and with a larger support surface on the infeed and outfeed than the fence that came with this bench table saw. I’ve thought of screwing an aluminum profile to the three legs in the front of the bench onto which I can lock the new fence.
DIY Blast Gate Box for a Table Saw Station
Now I’ll show you the DIY blast gate box I made for use with this saw station. It has a 100mm outlet to connect the main hose in the lower part, and two secondary 63mm hoses with blast gates, one of which is fitted with a hose cuff to connect it to the table saw, and another that goes straight into the router table cabinet.
In order to attach it, I have to lift the outfeed folding table. I’ve designed it like this so that I can attach it to the workbench when I want to use it, and then remove it so that the workbench takes up less space when stored against a wall. The table saw hose can be connected to the router table fence when necessary.
DIY Router Table for a Table Saw Workbench
I’ve installed the DIY router table on the right side of the saw. The router is inside a cabinet with a door. This way I’ve manage to reduce the noise it makes while in operation. I’ve installed a switch with an emergency stop to activate it. In order to hold and lift the router, I’ve used a fixed router base which came screwed to an insert plate, but I’m planning on making a new and improved router lift.
With this router table and its fence, I can make all kinds of milling jobs. In these photos from episode number 3 of this series, you can see some of the tests I made to show off how it works, with the fence, the miter gauge or the featherboards. I can use the bench table saw fence to accurately adjust the router table fence.
Drawers and Accessories for a Portable Woodworking Workbench
Under the router I installed a couple of drawers that slide on some grooves I made on the sides of the cabinet. This way I’ll be able to keep my router bits and accessories handy all the time. The advantage of making drawers like this without slides is that I can remove them from the workbench and carry the bits around the workshop, besides saving weight and money by not buying the slides.
Logically, they don’t open as smoothly as if I had used drawer slides, but it’s a matter of priorities. It’s easy to install some slides if you prefer; you’ll only have to subtract the thickness of the slides to the drawers. I’ve sorted the bits by diameter to locate them more easi-ly, and I’ve put them in small individual boxes to avoid damaging them if I ever want to take them with me to work outside the shop. In the bottom drawer, I’ve put some router accessories and a set of bits.
This bench’s drawers will be great to keep all my most frequently used table saw accessories handy. In the bottom left, I’ve put the router plunge base, the featherboards and the push sticks to use with the table saw or the router table.
In the next drawer I’ve put other router table accessories. And in the top drawer, I’ve put measuring tools such as the dial indicator to set up the table saw or the digital angle finder.
In the gap underneath the bench table saw I can save more accessories such as the miter gauge and, of course, the DIY table saw sled. This sled will allow me to do almost all kinds of cuts. I’ve designed it with a zero clearance so that I can use it with almost all blade types and sizes.
I’ve also made some new zero clearances for the bench table saw which will let me achieve more precise cuts without the typical splintering on the outfeed. The zero clearance that came with it was unreliable and I couldn’t adjust it properly.
I’ve used the same plywood board that I made the benchtops with, it’s a kind of MDF that’s harder and more compact. In the pictures above you can see me doing some tests, showing off how to use a zero clearance with a dado blade.
I think this is one of the few table saws that come with an arbor that can be used with dado blades in Europe. If you’re interested to know more about these kinds of blades and the regulations governing their use in this article you will find more information.
Just been looking at the bench making. First class job and well made
thanks Peter!
Can you provide indormation on where to purchase the extended fence
This is an amazing work bench – you have really thought of it all. I love the inclusion of the router in the table, it really makes this a high functioning and the storage is fantastic! Really nice work!! I think I may have to build one!! I have the exact same table saw.
thanks Samuel! I would love to see photos of your version of the bench.
Love the design and the execution, especially the sliding carriage. I have a similar saw Dewalt 7480 and want to buy your plans. Are these plans and cut lists available in imperial ?
I would love to see how you’ve made the zero clearance inserts. I have a version of the same saw and need to make these.
Although I’m not in Europe, I would be curious to know about the Dado rules as I’m sure others would as well. Happy Holidays!
thanks Greg!
Hola, me gustaría saber si me suministrarías los planos pero adaptada a una Bosch GTS 10 XC.
Tengo q reconocer que desde hoy pasas a ser mi ídolo.
Me encanta el orden y las cosas bien echas, yo empiezo en este mundo aunq un poco tarde.
Muchas gracias.
hola Marco, gracias por tus amables palabras. No realizo planos a medida, lo siento, pero en este artículo encontrarás info interesante para ti:
It should be called “The Smart Workbench”. Well done!
haha! thanks Daniel!
I really like the Design of the Workbench and am looking forward seeing it in your Videos. What I’m really interested is – how much are the full cost just for the Wood and the different rails? Sorry my english isn’t the best …
I’m planning to building this workbench for my Shop … it’s the best i’ve seen yet!! Good Job, really good Design + Function! Very well Done!!
thanks Tony! depending on the board and fittings you use, the price can vary between 400 or 800 euros
The cost in dollars of the Mobile Workbench with Table Saw & Router Table. I want to make sure because it’s read 25,00 not 25 €. Is the cost in dollars $28.53?
hi Miguel,
yes, the change is around $28
Beautyfull workbench. I love it. I will use your design as a reference to build a more compact and lighter bench for the DeWalt DWE7485. 140 cm x 60 cm is the max size. 40 cm for the slidingtable, 60 cm for the saw and 40 cm for the router.
send me some photo Nico!
Hello, I congratulate you for this beautiful workbench.
Can you tell me if the plans are in metric (CE)?
Can I easily use 18mm multiplex to make the workbench?
yes, they are in metric system. Here more info about the plans:
You can also use that multiplex board.
Hi, I noticed that the sheet goods required for this project are larger than available in the UK – 2500 and not 2440. Similar for width.
Do you have any information about how much material is required for UK-sized boards and/or any more information?
hi Simon, it is a small difference, I think it will be the same.
You will find the necessary boards on the product page.
Hi, Love your precision. I have a few questions about the sled and the sliding carriage, if I may. I notice that you have a grippy upper surface for one and smooth surface for the other, yet they have the same function; is there a reason?
I have struggled to find the thick HPL in New Zealand; do you have a supplier or Amazon link? I noticed that with the sled there was no mention of angled cuts; does your adjustable zero-clearance detail and changeable timber insert deal with this or do you move the sled over one track and cut to the edge?
hi John, this is related to the sled board. With this sled and the appropriate inserts you will be able to make angled cuts. It’s hard to find HPL online, you can use other materials like acrylic or MDF.
Thanks Suso. I appreciate the fast response. I may not have been clear; by angled I really meant beveled cuts with the blade tilted from vertical. I worry that at 45 degrees the HPL plates will not be able to clear the tilted blade. Also, the blade would need to be tilted AFTER the sled is positioned over it or else you will wind up with a cut through the back to match every angle you ever use. Is this what you do or is there another trick to it?
I had understood you well! for those angled cuts I use the miter gauge, but I think you can also use the sled. Of course, you will need some inserts for each angle, and effectively cut the back and front of the sled with each new angle.
Thanks Suso. By the way I have found a supplier of 6 or 12mm HPL in NZ; Laminex Contact.
And just to close off my other question, was there a reason for the grippy vs the smooth surfaces on the sled vs the carriage? They both do the same job but at different scales.
I also use the sliding carriage to work on it, and with a smooth face it is easier to clean. You can also use a smooth face for the sled!
What type of board is the top made with? I like the colors and the surface but have not seen anything like it before.
hi Steve, check this out:
Awesome Project. So inspiring indeed. I am from India and intend to make one but I wonder if all the parts are available easily here – India/Bangalore.
Fantastic project. Can you please advise me how to adapt to a Festool OF 2200 router? Are there any ideas on how this router could be configured?
hi Adam, google “OF 2200 router insert plate” and you will find perfect inserts to use with that router and my router table design.
Hi. I too am interested in buying the plans but I have a question. Maybe it was asked before, I couldn’t find it. How about the extendable fence or the extendable part of the fence, where can that be bought from? And also the router fence. Thank you.
hi Brad, here you’ll find more information:
Hi Suso. Thank you for your quick reply. I already checked that and the links. I am referring only to the extension, I could’t find it anywhere. Here, this part: https://prnt.sc/PN9hZ8hlal3i
Brad; that extension is homemade, I made it with a piece of the same profile and two 10mm steel pipes. Check this out:
Hallo bekomme ich von dir auch Baupläne und was kostet sie
What are the details of the soft start switch you installed for your Dewalt table saw?
hi Murray, here you’ll find the specs:
Hi,
This is a really great work.
I made my mittersaw bench so that it accomodate slide this mobile workbench underneath.
My question to you is: If I have a DWE7491, will I have to modify the plans ?
The DWE7491 depth is 670mm while the DWE7492 is 650mm.
Thank you.
Hey Pierre,
I am also making this bench to work with the DWE7491. Is this the 10” Dewalt available in the US?
신용카드 결재시 오류가 나네요…
Hi, love this bench. Just purchased the plans and looking forward to getting started on it. Quick question. Do you also have cut sheets for plywood in imperial units… sheets are 8 feet by 4 feet, slightly smaller than the metric cut sheets in the plans.
What material do you use for the top?
Thinking of getting the plans, want to make sure material is available in my area or where i need to get.
hi Charles, check this out: