Sliding carriage fence adjustment

[Superbra]

Hi Suso,

I have a question about how to adjust/set-up the sliding carriage fence.

When one makes a saw sled, the 5 cut method is used to make the fence as square as possible to the saw blade. Very small adjustments are needed before the fence is locked in position.

The fence of the sliding carriage is removable and in your video you adjust it with a simple block of wood. But only a small error can make your cuts not square. Perhaps I'm trying to be too precise. After all, we're doing woodworking and not metalworking...

Do you experience this design is precise enough to guarantee squareness?

Bart

[Suso]

hi Bart,

you're right, as I mentioned in the video, I still need to develop a system so that the fence is adjusted every time you place it, and at the same time allows adjustments when necessary. Maybe two bolts attached to the aluminum L profile that stop against the front of the bench.

I'm sorry I can't help you better!

[poprhythm]

The fence of the sliding carriage is removable and in your video you adjust it with a simple block of wood. Do you experience this design is precise enough to guarantee squareness?

I just finished the sliding carriage and have also been giving this some thought. Aligning it with the table saw's miter slot seems like is the way to go, I would think. Just using a miter gauge against the aluminum angle is what I am going to try. Or perhaps making a jig with a framing square attached to a miter bar/runner to insert into the miter slot...

What'd be preferable is to have a machined detent like on a miter saw, or something similar. It'd have to be adjustable in tiny amounts though.

[poprhythm]

Here is an idea - a ruler stop fitted for a sliding bar in the T Track. Use two of these to save the location of the correctly aligned fence. The bar has an end piece that rises out of the track to touch the bottom of the aluminum angle. This can be 3D printed, or perhaps created with a router bit? The stop can be made with a threaded insert and screw. This sketch uses the measurement of an M3 insert.



I'll try printing this and update with how it works!

[Suso]

hi poprhythm, it seems like a great idea, I'd like to see it in operation!

[poprhythm]

I got a working prototype - seems to work well from an initial test. The threaded insert is moved to the side, all the other ruler stops seem designed this way, more mechanical tension on the opposite face I think. The knurled heat-set inserts are M4 x 6mm, with M4 x 14mm screws to hold the slide.



I've recently upgraded my 3D printer but it's not all tuned in yet, please ignore any weird layering. I aligned the fence with a framing square relative to the miter track on the saw, then recorded the positions of the fence on the right and left using this track calibration end stop. (I'm open to a better name!)



Then tightened the screws to keep the slides secure for future alignment.



One problem right now is that the knurled inserts were popping out after I tightened them a bunch. This can be avoided by overtightening, but I will try CA gluing a washer over the top opening and see if that will help.

I'll post this model on printables so anyone can use it - please let me know any improvements that I'm missing!

[Suso]

hi poprhythm, seems like a good solution! I think you will just need to glue the knurled inserts. After all, it is not necessary to tighten the screws too much.

[poprhythm]

Great call, no need to overthink it!

Here's the model on Printables for anyone interested.

[hector01]

Hi Bart,

Great question! The sliding carriage fence is designed for quick adjustments, and while minor errors can occur, it’s precise enough for woodworking—not designer furniture for staging. Small tweaks ensure square cuts.

Best,
Suso