Hi! I am about 70% finished with the build and I need some guidance on a few things:
1. I have a a Rigid brand saw and I am having problems getting the blade 90 degrees to the table. With the blade fully extended it lines up nice, but when I drop it to cut 3/4" / 18mm wood, the weight of the motor is throwing it off 3 degrees or more. Any solutions to keep the blade 90 degrees throughout the full range? I have thrown away 3 inserts already because I cannot get it to line up right. Is there a better saw in the US market instead of Rigid that doesn't flex?
2. What happens if the fence and sled are not perfectly lined up with the blade? Commercial saws are machined with more accuracy than I can produce. Are there adjustments I can make and how? Is that the reason for only having one miter slot for the saw and not two? Loosen the screws and turn it? How about the fence? It is really hard to get those 35mm strips underneath the tables perfect
3. Does piece # 19 touch the saw or it is randomly placed just to prevent the top from bowing from the weight of the motor? My saw is bigger and hits the wood the way you have it drawn
Thank you!
Holding saw stable and alignment of fence and table sled
-
Cole
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Fri May 27, 2016 4:18 am
-
info@paoson
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Thu Oct 15, 2015 5:35 pm
Holding saw stable and alignment of fence and table sled
Hi Cole,
can't wait to see some pics!
1. Take a look at this:
https://youtu.be/D32oKlKP4-A?t=51
The smaller the disk you are using the lower you can keep the disk, so the tilt will be less.
I don't know what kind of circular saw are you using but better the quality of your machine, the easier the calibration will be.
Building a holder could be a nice solution if you are using a cheap CS.
Mine is makita 5903r, you won't have problems to find it in the US and it woks nice.
2. I talk about that here:
https://youtu.be/mEn3mTEu8pw?t=79
If the cabinet and fence are well built, you must fix it moving the circular saw.
The reason for only having one miter slot is a matter for design and because I did no really needed another one.
About the fence, I am not sure about what your are talking about with "those 35mm strips underneath the tables perfect"
3. The meaning of that part is to give more stability to the cabinet, my CS does not touch it. If your CS is bigger you can move or modify the piece # 19 , making a groove in the point that touch your CS for example.
can't wait to see some pics!
1. Take a look at this:
https://youtu.be/D32oKlKP4-A?t=51
The smaller the disk you are using the lower you can keep the disk, so the tilt will be less.
I don't know what kind of circular saw are you using but better the quality of your machine, the easier the calibration will be.
Building a holder could be a nice solution if you are using a cheap CS.
Mine is makita 5903r, you won't have problems to find it in the US and it woks nice.
2. I talk about that here:
https://youtu.be/mEn3mTEu8pw?t=79
If the cabinet and fence are well built, you must fix it moving the circular saw.
The reason for only having one miter slot is a matter for design and because I did no really needed another one.
About the fence, I am not sure about what your are talking about with "those 35mm strips underneath the tables perfect"
3. The meaning of that part is to give more stability to the cabinet, my CS does not touch it. If your CS is bigger you can move or modify the piece # 19 , making a groove in the point that touch your CS for example.
-
Cole
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Fri May 27, 2016 4:18 am
Holding saw stable and alignment of fence and table sled
Thank you for your reply.
1. I am using a Ridgid R32021 saw with a 7-1/4" blade. At the time of purchase, this was around a $150 USD saw. See below for pictures of it:
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2012/01/17/r32021-circular-saw
In the pictures, I zoomed in on the areas that are flexing and causing my blade to not be 90 degrees. These connections hold pretty tight with maximum blade level, but when i drop the motor to cut thinner material the motor is too heavy and these connections flex. I was really hoping to keep this project low budget and i'd like to avoid buying another saw, but if the Makita saw is very sturdy with no flex I might have to take a look at it.
2. I see in your design that you attached your saw with a flat head socket screw. Did you drill and tap the holes in your saw base or do you use a nut to hold the saw together? I could drill out the holes on the table top a little loose on purpose, that way I can tilt my saw a little bit one way or another to adjust.
The 35mm strips I am referring to are the pieces underneath the jig, saw, and router tops that the fence clamps onto. If I put one of those in slightly off from the other two pieces, I worry that my fence will be crooked and frustrating to work with.
1. I am using a Ridgid R32021 saw with a 7-1/4" blade. At the time of purchase, this was around a $150 USD saw. See below for pictures of it:
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2012/01/17/r32021-circular-saw
In the pictures, I zoomed in on the areas that are flexing and causing my blade to not be 90 degrees. These connections hold pretty tight with maximum blade level, but when i drop the motor to cut thinner material the motor is too heavy and these connections flex. I was really hoping to keep this project low budget and i'd like to avoid buying another saw, but if the Makita saw is very sturdy with no flex I might have to take a look at it.
2. I see in your design that you attached your saw with a flat head socket screw. Did you drill and tap the holes in your saw base or do you use a nut to hold the saw together? I could drill out the holes on the table top a little loose on purpose, that way I can tilt my saw a little bit one way or another to adjust.
The 35mm strips I am referring to are the pieces underneath the jig, saw, and router tops that the fence clamps onto. If I put one of those in slightly off from the other two pieces, I worry that my fence will be crooked and frustrating to work with.
-
info@paoson
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Thu Oct 15, 2015 5:35 pm
Holding saw stable and alignment of fence and table sled
1. The only solution I see if you want to keep that CS is to use a smaller disk or make a holder like this:
http://woodgears.ca/homemade_tablesaw/
But this would be a lot of work...
2. My CS has threaded holes in the base so I had the job done. So you have those 2 solutions, make the threaded holes or make bigger holes and use nuts and washers, which as you say it will let you tilt it a bit.
3. Don't worry about that, it is not complicated to build that part. Use clamps to hold the strips then make some drills and finally insert the screws. This way it will be perfect.
http://woodgears.ca/homemade_tablesaw/
But this would be a lot of work...
2. My CS has threaded holes in the base so I had the job done. So you have those 2 solutions, make the threaded holes or make bigger holes and use nuts and washers, which as you say it will let you tilt it a bit.
3. Don't worry about that, it is not complicated to build that part. Use clamps to hold the strips then make some drills and finally insert the screws. This way it will be perfect.
-
Cole
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Fri May 27, 2016 4:18 am
Holding saw stable and alignment of fence and table sled
You were not joking....that is a lot of work! It definately would fix my problem though. I wish I had a 3D drawing of my saw. I could mill the pieces and avoid all the fit issues. Thanks for the idea, I might do it. When I am done you will see. I did look for your saw in the US with no luck. The best I could find that is close is a Makita 5008MGA. Smaller, but I think it has the same basic structure. They don't stock it in stores so I would have to special order and hope I get lucky. Do you know where in the US your saw is? You mentioned it is available.
-
info@paoson
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Thu Oct 15, 2015 5:35 pm
Holding saw stable and alignment of fence and table sled
Hi,
that Makita seems too small, I think you'll go better with mine or an equivalent size and range of prices, even though it is a different brand.
But, of course, if you don't want (or can't) to spend the difference, that one can do the job and due to its reduced size you'll probably have less tilt problems.
that Makita seems too small, I think you'll go better with mine or an equivalent size and range of prices, even though it is a different brand.
But, of course, if you don't want (or can't) to spend the difference, that one can do the job and due to its reduced size you'll probably have less tilt problems.