Mobile Workbench with Table Saw & Router Table

[Jacob80]

Thanks for your quick reply!

I saw Dennis from Hooked on Wood use the black MDF a lot too and I love the aesthetics of it, but I can understand the humidity (changes) become an issue. HDF would then be more stable but even more expensive.

OK, I'll go with the ply wood (in the Netherlands Okoumé hard wood is one of the more common and affordable types though not as pretty, Poplar is about EUR20,- less per full sheet at my local supplier so I'll want the extra weight and rigidity of Okoumé for that little extra money) and HPL laminate then.

[Suso]

hi again Jacob,

in my opinion, the black MDF or standard MDF is a good option when you have a sturdy frame under the board, to which you can screw the MDF, but this is not the case with the Mobile Workbench. Some parts like the sliding carriage are not even screwed, so it is better to use a more stable board that is not affected as much by humidity, like plywood boards.

[Jacob80]

Thanks again Suso, I ordered 18mm Okoumé with 2 sheets of HPL to glue onto it (should be a nice challenge to get that on flat )

[Jacob80]

Dear all,

has anybody managed to find a place to mount a decent carpenters vice onto the workbench?

The only stationary work surface is the routing table, but the router will clash with the vice spindles protruding under the work surface. Only way I see this work is move the router left (towards the saw) but that will limit the max movement of the router fence.
Alternative would be in front of the sliding table left of the saw, and keep the vice 20mm below the sliding work surface of the table, but I don't know if that will work. Clamping hard would damage the sliding table stop I think.

I'm considering ditching the sliding table altogether because of this and only use a miter sled.

If any of you have some insights I would really appreciate them

[BodieM]

I have the 7485, too.
1) How did you proceed?
2) Is it possible to convert the plan? Do I have to choose the 7485 as option, before buying the plans?

Thanks for any feedback

Sorry for the delay! I ended up buying the bigger saw. I’m actually pretty glad I upgraded, but I probably would not have if I hadn’t already built the table frame to size for the larger table. I might have looked elsewhere for plans or ideas for the smaller saw if I had known, because i didn’t want to do all the work converting these plans to a smaller size. It might not be too much work but I’m not great at autocad software. Hope you ended up figuring things out!

[piotr_w]

Hi Suso,

I'm trying to build the fence according to the project specifications. I noticed you specified using a 60mm x 40mm x 4mm unequal L-shape aluminum profile to support the fence. Unfortunately, I'm unable to find the exact profile dimensions anywhere in the UK. The closest sizes I can find are 63.5mm x 38.1mm x 3.2mm or 50.8mm x 38.1mm x 3.2mm. Could you please advise if either of these sizes would be suitable?

Many thanks,
Piotr

[Suso]

hi Piotr,
You will not have problems if you use the 50.8mm x 38.1mm x 3.2mm profile.

[nboo]

Can this be built with the Sawstop JSS?

[JimParker256]

Thanks! This was helpful!

I converted the entire cut list and sketchup to imperial (I'm from Brazil and live in US, so it is with pain that I did it, metric is a lot better).

Also adjusted it to have 6ft and to fit the SawStop. Happy to share the plans and the cut list csv for any folks building this in US.

As I was doing it, I adjusted a bunch of measures also to be less fractional, so for instance the pillars you did with 80mm I converted to 3 inches and not 3 5/32 and so on.

I also adjusted all the plywood to 3/4, 1/2 and 1/4. While at it, I noticed piece 36 is 1/2 inch (15mm) and not 3/4 (18mm). any reason for not using the same thickness as the other ones?

I would love to see tha plans and cultist in Imperial measurements for the SawStop, since I'm trying to build for exactly that saw. I purchased the original plans, and am slogging through documenting the changes (in mm) for the SawStop CTS, but it's a mind-bender, for sure! (I'm an absolute NOOB at SketchUp...)

[jwc]

Maybe it's just me, but the frame instructions don't appear to contain the elements for the back side. For example the diagram for H and G only apply to the front piece with the cutouts. As a fairly novice woodworker I found this confusing until I realized what was going on. Makes it easier to assemble a section wrong (thankfully caught it before glue up).

Also, I've noticed part 9 is different front and back and should be 9 and 9b the way it's been done for other parts. It's unclear without going into sketchup what the cut should measure there.