Dorel`s router

Discuss topics related to the 3D Router
Woodchuck
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2016 8:31 am

Dorel`s router

Post by Woodchuck » Fri Feb 05, 2016 5:25 pm

Hello to everybody.
This is the first post regarding the building the 3D router.
Tomorrow I will have the plywood. I want to start with the small pieces that's require a router.
I just bought a B&D router and in the manual they say that is forbidden to operate it upside down.
It`s bullshit or may suffer damage. I will use it as a stationary till I will get a good spindle motor.

There are some questions I do have at first reading.


1.Does any of you have a list of the cuttings in word or excel to automatically put it in the optimizer program.
2. I seen dimensions like xxx.3 mm . Is hard to cut under 1 mm. What are the tolerances ?

Thanks in advance.

Panelli
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Dec 06, 2015 2:04 am

Dorel`s router

Post by Panelli » Sat Feb 06, 2016 3:20 pm

Hello Woodchuck
I am building the 3D router.
I used a free panel optimizer, name is MaxCut, very useful.
Was very easy to input each piece.
I did not input the small pieces.

Regarding the less than an mm cuts. I did use Exact measurement. I did a tune-up of my saw and router table before I began the work and was able to get exact cuts.

On tolerance. There are obvious parts were tolerance would not be critical, but others that are very critical. I assumed there was very little deviation, therefore cut everything exact. ( See my posts Nello's build -with progress for other thoughts.)
The rails are very critical. Note the the washers for spacing the bearings may not be exactly the same thickness, thus causing the bearings to ride at a slightly different height on the tract. It was enough to prevent the axis from being "true".

I am busy with other work thus only work on the router a little at a time. I will not finish this for another month or more. I can say that I enjoy this build.
Nello

Woodchuck
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2016 8:31 am

Dorel`s router

Post by Woodchuck » Sun Feb 07, 2016 6:19 am

Hello Nello

Thanks for your advice. When I wrote this post I was eager to start the project. After burning the midnight oil I went yesterday and I bought a 190 cm saw blade more reliable and I was able to make exact cuts. Even I was using the sand paper to finish.
Regarding the original project I din find her L profile 20/20 from stainless steel. If I will not be able to cut it (due the hardness) it will be not a problem 1 mm each side. The edge of the profile i found is almost perfect, and I want to try to use a "V" roll bearing instead of 2 pieces of 608. I found here at 1.3 $. I think that will limit the errors. Also using the "V" bearing allow to use "L" type profile for sliding made of aluminum.
Image


Now I`m waiting for some router bits and today is Sunday and I will just make drawings and easy stuff,

Thanks a lot for your help and will keep in touch for the rest of the work.

Dorel

PS For optimizing the cuts I use a versatile program named OPTIMIK

Suso
Posts: 974
Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 4:51 pm

Dorel`s router

Post by Suso » Mon Feb 08, 2016 8:57 am

Hello:
about the tolerance, you better round up or down.
V-groove bearings are an excellent choice, although you will have to vary a bit the position of the holes in the plywood board.
I tried the Maxcut v2 and it works ok.

Woodchuck
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2016 8:31 am

Dorel`s router

Post by Woodchuck » Mon Feb 08, 2016 10:15 am

Thanks a lot Suso.
I will not have to modify to much .
Tommorow I will have the bearings. In fact just s small washer to compensate. The sliding is the same. And also in that case I can use aluminium. It`s also a little bit cheaper for the first try.
Also I want to use someting like this Image 10 or 12 mm diameter with 3mm step togheter with Image

The nut is made from Ertalyte TX self lubricated.

Please advice .

Best regards,
Dorel.

Suso
Posts: 974
Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 4:51 pm

Dorel`s router

Post by Suso » Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:04 am

I like your threaded rod system. Nice solution.

If you are going to use v-groove bearings, the aluminium profile will be ok.

Please, send me photos!

Woodchuck
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2016 8:31 am

Dorel`s router

Post by Woodchuck » Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:14 am

Dear Suso,

Be sure of the pictures. And the trapezoidal screw and nut is about 12 euro. But have increased stability and also ensure a smooth and precise translation.

Suso
Posts: 974
Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 4:51 pm

Dorel`s router

Post by Suso » Mon Feb 08, 2016 2:54 pm

Thanks! where did you get the V Groove bearings?

Panelli
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Dec 06, 2015 2:04 am

Dorel`s router

Post by Panelli » Mon Feb 08, 2016 3:04 pm

Dorel
Where are you using the trapezoidal screw and nut? Is it for the up/down of the Y axis?
On my build I notice that the Center of Effort of little bit to far to the back. As it moves up and down it tends to tilt forward. Moving the lift rod forward 20 - 25 mm would correct that.
Also note that Brickerbrac's build has two lift cranks to stay parallel. I also note that on my build, with one crank, the Wall does not stay parallel as it moves up and down. Needs a little tweaking with each move.

I also feel V groove bearings will be an easier build.

Keep us updated.
Nello

Woodchuck
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2016 8:31 am

Dorel`s router

Post by Woodchuck » Mon Feb 08, 2016 5:32 pm

Dear sirs,

I will refer in the next post both of you (Suso and Panelli),

The problems with the bearings and the problems on the translation in any axe are related.

At the beginning I want to tell you that I was working a lot in power transmissions and adapted several projects in most various domains. After that I was making projects for advertising and automation for several requested projects. I made several project for furniture and wood working but I was subcontracting all the parts and I just put the parts togheter. Now I want to create my workshop pe various projects and enjoy the work.
I`m telling you as somebody who does not know to much about handling a table saw and how to used with high precision (YET).

So let`s start with my considerations regarding the 2 problems.

1, The movement on the xor Y axis is requesting quite a lot of precision. My proposal is to have the possibility to move the bearing assembly up and down or left and right depend on the axis. No more than 5 mm. That will correct the minor mistakes or misalignment
The M8 screw for X axis movement in my opinion is that is to small and the dimension and quality of the thread is not satisfactory. Also the normal nut is to small to ensure precision even fo 300 mm translation. for this reason I propose (and I am sure it a decent approach) to use a trapezoidal screw ant nut. There are several manufacturers. Avoid to use high precision for CNC. The price is very high . Normal class o precision will do the job.
2. Regarding the V bearings there are a lot of manufacturers . Of course you can buy "Mercedes" from

http://www.linearonline.co.uk/acatalog/Vee_Bearings.html

or find cheap SKF bearings

http://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-624v-ball-bearing.html

The code is 624 V and will do the JOB. Sure there are other supliers.
A google search is sufice. In Romania I found at http://www.tekro.ro/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=255 with 1.1 euro each (VAT included)

Also the same with the trapezoidal screws.

Regarding the bearings my main problem is that I was not able to perform an exact V cut Maybe Suso can help me with some know how (thanks in advance). This is a problem if you don`t have a precision table saw or a router.
So I`m thinking if we will use the V bearing why not to use a T profile . The precision will be the same and it will be much easier to install . A lot of mistakes will be avoided and no headache.

This is my opinion and really I wait for your reply and comments.

Mr. Suso if possible I will appreciate a little help regarding the technique to make good V Cuts.

Best regards and have a nice time.

Dorel

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