Mobile Workbench with Table Saw & Router Table

[Suso]

hi Muanis, please check this out:

[Muanis]

Thanks! This was helpful!

I converted the entire cut list and sketchup to imperial (I'm from Brazil and live in US, so it is with pain that I did it, metric is a lot better).

Also adjusted it to have 6ft and to fit the SawStop. Happy to share the plans and the cut list csv for any folks building this in US.

As I was doing it, I adjusted a bunch of measures also to be less fractional, so for instance the pillars you did with 80mm I converted to 3 inches and not 3 5/32 and so on.

I also adjusted all the plywood to 3/4, 1/2 and 1/4. While at it, I noticed piece 36 is 1/2 inch (15mm) and not 3/4 (18mm). any reason for not using the same thickness as the other ones?

[Suso]

No special reason! it was to use the same board as for the drawers sides. You can use whatever you want.

[Muanis]

So, I'm trying to decide if I make a change to the design or not.

Pieces 15C and 15B (the sliding table on the left side) are both deeper than the table as the image below.



I have mine cut to size but only dried fit without glue. But they actually restrict the movement of the table saw fence. Like below



I'm wondering if @Suso decided to do this since to the left he only uses the built fence with the sliding table and only uses the saw fence when cutting on the right side.

Can you shed more light on the design decision @Suso? Hard to decide without having used it.

[Suso]

hi Muanis, read this post and then share your doubts here:

[Muanis]

I need to tinker with this more. It will be 2 weeks until I can restart working on it, so I have time.

I have the left bolt, so want to see what it does for me. I don't like losing the ruler on the saw. I like the version where someone carved the underside with a router. Will comment there with any ideas.

[NewWoodworkerVA]

Thinking of doing this for my SawStop CTS and using Imperial (I am in USA).

How many sheets of plywood do you use here for this?

[Muanis]

I used 3 sheets of 3/4 for the structure. Look at the 'Using other table saws' thread, I posted a bunch of changes I needed to do for the Sawstop

[Jacob80]

@Suso et al, I was about to pull the trigger on the materials needed for the Mobile Workbench with the HPL work surface, when I saw the folding workbench that has the black MDF work surface. With all lessons learned, what would be your choice of surface if you would build the mobile workbench again?

I ran the numbers on Ply wood + HPL sheet (instead of the HDF+HPL sheets you used) vs MDF and the price difference is about a factor 3 (160,- for a full sheet of MDF vs 488,- for a full sheet of 18mm ply wood + 0.8mm HPL + backing + edge band + contact glue) so I am really tempted to go with the MDF.

I did not even ask for a full offer for Baltic Birch plywood because

Did you use any surface sealant on the MDF?

[Suso]

hi Jacob,
I think the best material to make the tops of the Mobile Workbench is some type of plywood with HPL on the faces. You can use poplar plywood, it's cheaper.

For the rest of the bench you can also use poplar or pine plywood, this time without the HPL on the faces.

The black-tinted MDF is very pretty but it is quite marked when working on it. Additionally, it moves more than plywood due to humidity. To varnish, I've used matte nitro spray lacquer.